RELIGION

Although the Balinese are Hindu, their religion is very different from that of the Indian variety. They do have a caste system, but there are no untouchables and occupation is not governed by caste. In fact, the only thing that reflects the caste system is the language which bas three tiers; 95% of all Balinese are Hindu Dharma, and speak Low or Everyday Balinese with each other; Middle Balinese is used for talking to strangers, at formal occasions or to people of the higher Ksatriya caste; High Balinese is used when talking to the highest class, the Brahmana, or to a pedanda (priest). It may sound complicated, but most of the words at the low and medium levels are the same, whereas High Balinese is a mixture of Middle Balinese and Kawi, the ancient Javanese language.

Although the Balinese worship the Hindu trinity Brahma, Shiva and Vishnu, these are seen as manifestations of the Supreme God - Sanghyang Widhi. Other Indian gods like Ganesh (the elephant-headed god) often appear, but more commonly one will see shrines to the many gods and spirits that are uniquely Balinese. Balinese believe strongly in magic and the power of spirits, and much of their religion is based upon this. They believe that good spirits dwell in the mountains and that the seas are home to demons and ogres. Most villages have at least three main temples; one, the Pura Puseh or 'temple of origin', faces the mountains and is dedicated to the village founders, another, the Pura Desa or village temple, is normally round in the centre and is dedicated to the welfare of the village, the last, the Pura Dalem, is aligned with the sea and is dedicated to the spirits of the dead. Aside from these 'village' temples, almost every house has its own shrine, and you can also find monuments dedicated to the spirits of agriculture, art and all other aspects of life. There are some temples, for example, Pura Besakih on the slopes of Mount Agung, that are considered especially important and people from all over Bali travel to worship there.

Offerings play a significant role in Balinese life as they appease the spirits and thus bring prosperity and good health to the family. Every day little offering trays (canang sari) containing symbolic food, flowers, cigarettes and money, are placed on shrines, in temples, outside houses and shops, and even on dangerous turns in the road.

Festivals are another great occasion for appeasing the gods. The women bear huge, beautifully arranged, pyramids of food, fruit and flowers on their men give a blood sacrifice in the form of the cockfight. There are tradition dances and music,and the Gods are invited to come down and join in the festivities. The festivals are almost always very exciting occasions, and well worth observing, if  you are in the area. One crucial thing to remember: should you wish to join in celebrations or enter a temple, there are a number of rules that have to be respected. Please see "AWord of  vice" for Rules.